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February 12, 2007

Bogey’s Will Treat Your Sweetheart Right

By Colleen Coffield Sachs, Daily News Columnist

DEFUNIAK SPRINGS — If you haven’t eaten at Hotel DeFuniak recently, it’s time to go back. With a change in ownership of the hotel, the restaurant has been transformed.

Bogey’s Bar & Restaurant is casual, but offers white tablecloth dining in a comfortable and attractive dining room. Dark walls are decorated with old photos of celebrities. Chairs are substantial and comfortable. Bogey’s has an understated but elegant feel that fits its historic location.

Service was outstanding. We were greeted warmly, and our server didn’t miss a beat, remembering fine details and constantly checking back with us (without being intrusive).

Good service helped make our meal enjoyable, but the star of the show was chef/owner Brad Harding’s food. Classic cuisine influenced by Harding’s experience in the Florida Keys are combined to create a menu that goes from casual to elegant without overreaching.

The menu is seafood intense. Catch of the Day starts with a sautéed filet of the fish of the day in a wine and lemon butter sauce, and then offers one of four toppings.

A favorite at our table was the Normandie (mushrooms, tomatoes, shallots, hearts of palm, almonds and crab meat). Picatta is classic with capers and lemon, while Lorenzo, topped with blue crab stuffing and Bearnaise is rich.

Seafood goes more casual with Crunchy Catch of the Day. It is perfect with panko bread crumbs providing a lovely golden crust around a moist interior. Crunchy fried shrimp are another good casual option, and respectable Fish and Chips are also on the menu.

We also enjoyed seafood in appetizers of a jumbo crab cake and a sautéed soft shell crab. The cake was large enough to be an entrée if paired with a salad. It was filled with crab, and got richness and flavor from a subtle Bearnaise sauce. The soft shell was nicely crisp and was accented with a garlic and wine sauce.

Other starters include baked brie, spinach and artichoke dip, and grilled shrimp glazed with honey, garlic and soy sauce.

While seafood is abundant on the menu, there are plenty of non-seafood items that are just as delicious. Filet mignon au poivre is a good option, as is veal or chicken picatta.

Veal Restaurateur was a nice choice. Breaded veal was topped with ham, tomato slices and provolone. The dish was brought together with a brown demi-glaze.

Dinner can be a light affair with an entrée salad. One option is the Montego Bay Salad topped with fried grouper tossed in a delicious honey-garlic-cilantro dressing.

Salads are also offered on the lunch menu, which is decidedly more casual than the dinner menu. Starters include excellent fried green tomatoes and hot wings that make good use of the honey-garlic-cilantro dressing.

Sandwiches make up the majority of the menu. Cold sandwiches include chicken and tuna salads. Burgers are offered plain or dressed up with toppings including caramelized onions and Swiss cheese.

The hot sandwiches include the irresistibly good Crunchy Key Largo Fish Sandwich with a crisp grouper filet fried with a panko crust. The chicken melt with caramelized onions and bacon on sourdough is another good hot sandwich.

Desserts are offered at Bogey’s with house-made selections being the best. We enjoyed a Key lime pie, and a crème brulee cheesecake.

Desserts are displayed in a case in the coffee shop area of the hotel (where the main dining room used to be). The coffee shop is open during the day except for Sunday.

Bogey’s is a wonderful addition to DeFuniak Springs. With excellent food and service, and outstanding value Bogey’s is likely to become a popular destination even for those who don’t live in DeFuniak Springs.

Bogey’s Bar and Restaurant
400 Highway 90 East
DeFuniak Springs, FL
(850) 951-CAFÉ (2233)
www.HotelDefuniak.com

Hours
Breakfast: Tues-Sat from 6:30am - 10am
Lunch: Tues-Fri from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Dinner: Tues-Sat starting at 5pm.

Price range
Appetizers: $5.95 to $9.95
Salads: $4.95 to $8.95
Entrees: $14.95 to $24.95
Lunch: $3.50 to $9.95

Additional information
* Reservations accepted
* Handicap accessibility
* Children’s menu
* Accepts all major credit cards

Colleen Coffield Sachs is restaurant reviewer for the Daily News. She dines unannounced at area restaurants for this column. You may write to her in care of the newspaper at P.O. Box 2949, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32549.